WLE- First Day- Qobeyat to Fneidik

I am writing this from a small Internet shop in Fneidik, a town in Akar. There is no signal for Mobi elsewhere unfortunately, but the chap that runs the place has been very helpful.

What a day! 20 KM fulfilled. Samer can't believe he actually managed it. The first couple of hours were hard and steep and for a minute he harbored some doubts, but to his credit he held his ground and came through to the last step.

It all started at 5 am, actually by 4 am both Samer and I were awake and got ready in time for our pickup. We met Chamoun along the way and the drive to Tripoli at that time of day took a swift 1 hour. This was followed by another taxi trip from Tripoli to Qobayat, a nice little town in Akar. While Qobayat seemed organized and more developed, unfortunately along the way one tends to see a lot of poverty in the Akkar region. It seems not much in economic trickle down has occured over the past few decades in these parts. The last time I was here was in 2000, and the conditions are almost identical. On a positive note, this has also caused the region to be left alone and its nature in almost virgin condition.

During our walk we passed through beautiful parks full of Cedars, the Shouh Arz, a specific type that is different from the famous Cedars of Lebanon. We met villagers, shephards, and farmer and people from the area. Most men seemed to be or have been part of the Lebanese military at one point- which appears to be one of the largest regional employers. But they were all most welcoming, inviting us to drink, eat, and even stay. Unfortunately, we had to decline to be able to move on. During the walk, the weather was spectacular, cool and breezy and we got some low clouds and a light fog at one point. That helped us cope with the exertions of the first day.

We finally arrived to our destination at around 4:50 pm, which if we consider a departure time of 8:10, gives an approximate hike time of 9 hours- more than we estimated, but nonetheless inevitable considering the first day's pace. The place we will be staying for the night is as basic as they come. Literally a tent with a table and chairs outside. Hassan the owner of the joint is the quintessential Akar macho man. He has been very accomodating, and well connected in the town- the Internet guy is his cousin. So no complaints...

Will run back up to the camp now where Chamoun and Samer are waiting. Tonight all I can think of is eating and sleeping (which I am craving), and I am looking forward to our onwards journey tomorrow.

Here are some pics to enjoy ...

WLE- Crazy D Day (D as in Departure)

A crazy day it has been with a million things to get done before hike-off ...

Started off with Chamoun visiting us in Hamra for us to finalize some details. The good news is most hiking days will be around 20 km. The bad news is some may go up to 30 in order for us to get to our lodging. Those appear to be towards the end of the expedition, so Samer and I think we will be OK. The map has been charted

During the day, we went around buying last minute stuff that we needed to pack, including water, immodium, less hair so as to avoid the potential of any ticks, as well as chaffing cream, which would be helpful before every hike.

More weight adjustments to the hiking bag. I figure with the water camel bag (a bag in the hiking gear, which has a tube protruding our to provide water without needing the water bag to be taken out), the total weight will be around 15 kg, which should start going down once water consumed. The weight range is therefore likely to be between 12 and 15 kg. Thankfully Samer has taken on some of the camera load without increasing his load to too much. 

Lots of friends and family members wishing us good luck. Thanks to all for all your support, especially Abiro for safe keeping Samer's stuff, Karim D. for doing the same with mine and providing zoom lens, phone..., Diab for his digging out of a Mobi data modem at the last minute, and Samer D. for his and Roula's moral support. All of you guys are awesome. Rani called to confirm he will be joining us on Day 9 and 10 with his sister. All the merrier.

I am glad Samer is back at the hotel fast asleep now, as I am trying to install the Mobi modem on Windows 7 at Tasty Cafe. Fortunately, it is open until the wee hours of the modem and offers a reliable Internet connection unlike I am sad to say the hotel where we are staying. Interestingly, it is Sunday evening, and there are stores in different parts of Beirut that are open 24/7 selling data recharging plans not to mention customer support. A pleasant surprise, and a direly needed one.

It is almost 1 am now, and the wake up call back in the hotel is for 4:45 am for a 5 am taxi pickup. Having finally downloaded all the Mobi drivers, I will run back to the hotel now call Mobi's customer support to give me username and password, and hopefully my data cconnection will work without the WIFI I am on now. 

A crazy end to a crazy day ... hopefully it will be happy one.

The start of tomorrow's adventure beckons ... Samer and I are all excitement- so is Chamoun !!!

WLE - 1: Sleepless in Beirut

It’s 4 am. Woke up to sound of mosque prayer and couldn’t go back to sleep. I am still jetlagged and my stomach is asking for a US dinner. It will have to wait a couple of hours for a Lebanese breakfast.

Earlier in the day having had an eventless couple of flights from DC (other than an aborted landing in Frankfurt), we were met at Beirut airport by my old football friend Diab, who took us on a tour of sports project he is starting. It is the fulfillment of his life’s work and a life dream, and I am very happy for him. 

The weather in Lebanon is fair- upper 80’s Fahrenheit (lower 30’s Celsius). High humidity though. I would have thought it would be much worse this time of year. Samer’s sweat glands as usual very efficient. Hopefully, it will be more pleasant for him once we hit the mountain elevations. As for me, Lebanon has an immediate effect on my psoriasis, which tends to subside, so no complaints on my part.

As soon as we arrived to the hotel, I proceeded to buy a map of Lebanon and chart our expected course. Samer wants to carry the map. I think I may stick to the GPS I have setup, which includes charting, speed and altitude calculations, calorie burn, compass, and a woman’s voice to beckon one on if they get tired on the hike J. I expect all to be primordial during the expedition. My fear is that of energy. A strict charging regimen will have to be maintained.

Beirut seems quieter than usual. Many people cooling off in the mountains no doubt; but even more so it is the month of Ramadan and people who are fasting will tend to cut down on activities. I guess you cannot spend energy that you do not have. Yesterday evening’s get together was nice. Karim and Tanya. They seem to be getting into the habit of seeing me off to another expedition. Last year it was with my son Karim to the WC. We were also pleasantly surprised by Rany, my hiking pal frfom last time showing up. And also an old school friend of Samer’s- Mohammad, who we had not seen for many years. He came by to wish Samer a safe journey. It is always a pleasure to see old friends- even more so those who truly care. Karim also dropped off my cel phone card as well as zoom lens. All that remains is that I get an Internet connection for my laptop and I think we will be set.

Later on, Samer and I crashed to bed at the Hotel Plaza in Hamra, Beirut only to be woken up by Chamoun at an ungodly hour asking what time we will be meeting the next morning. I guess being awoken by Chamoun at odd hours will soon become a common occurrence, so might as well get accustomed to it from now.

Unable to sleep, I worry about the weight. Earlier I had finished transferring the hiking equipment and clothes into the new hiking bag. Didn’t look too stuffed. The problem, however, is weight. Had Samer try it on and he felt the weight too. Don’t have a weight to measure it, but common sense tells I will have to do some trade-offs and shed some stuff. The problem is nothing on its own appears too heavy. Combined, however, it becomes a dead weight … No choice really, because going up on a steep climb, I can imagine every additional half a kilo will begin weighing like a ton. Better preempt such an eventuality.

Found out I had forgotten to pack my shaving stuff, so I guess, no shaving until the hike is done. Twenty days should bring out a fair bit of white facial hair for sure … Time to try to get some sleep albeit sporadic …

WLE Day -2: Atlantic Crossing

The day has come for the Atlantic crossing. Flying Lufthansa is a pretty straightforward affair. An early departure to be followed by an 8-hour flight from Washington Dulles to Frankfurt, followed by a three hour layover and then a 4 hour flight to Beirut arriving early afternoon. Online check-in helps relieve much of the last minute pressure.

Everything packed, even managed to fit the hiking bag in a travel bag. The trick, I figured is extracting two parallel supporting rods in the back of the bag that keep it upright. Two small Velcro pockets inside the bag at the top end can be opened to let the rods out. Good design. Makes the hiking bag sturdy, but not rigid. Life should be more like that …

Samer met me at the office early in the morning and finished delivering a project to Microsoft a good two days ahead of schedule. Good for him. He can now relax on the weekend and enjoy Beirut! In the meantime, I managed to get the trip finances in order. Nothing complex, just simple calculations to be able to pay our lodging along the way. The idea is to carry enough to pay but not too much too misplace or risk getting stolen. Managed to call Beirut to confirm everything is ready with Chamoun. My lifetime football friend Diab will pick Samer and I up at Beirut airport upon arrival. Karim D., Hindo, Mandoun, and Ugo have confirmed they would like to join us at Ferdinand’s Saturday evening. Should be a nice evening …

Mom (Immeh) is more excited than both Samer and I. Her two boys are off to an adventure together. In the meantime, ever busy, she has decided to take on a massive basement reformation project all by herself. Mother is the epitome of family love, giving, and hard work. Ever since I can remember, she has been like that. Nothing, not even the most tragic of calamity, has ever changed that. She continues to be the rock of our family. A rock with a big heart. 

Karim called me to wish me good luck. He had seen Argentina knock Korea out of WC Under 20, and Mexico knock England out. He was excited about the next game: Argentina – Egypt. Should be a smasher with Egypt playing so well. A voracious reader, not unlike his jiddo, he urged me to keep the blog updated ...T sent me a note wishing me good luck and Moni- ever the skeptic- called me to tell me to be careful not get myself killed. Atto and Ammo Rabi came by to say goodbye and drop us off at the airport. Atto made sure we got to the airport on time, and then called us on the plane to make sure we had managed to get on! That’s my beloved aunt for you, but it’s nice to feel 5 years old every now and then … All in the family …

On the ride to the airport, Samer jokes that if this thing goes down the drain after the first few kilometers, we’ll divert to plan B: Blogging about the “hike” from a hotel by the beach somewhere …

Baggage drop at Dulles smooth. God bless technology. Security lines easy. Delicious food in Lufthansa lounge- better stock up while we still can and then dream of it while in the Akkar wilderness somewhere … Meet Michelle, a Lebanese friend of Samer’s who works in Lufthansa.  Boarding a cynch- German clockwork efficiency I suppose. Danke Shon Deutchland! 

Flight takes off on time. Good omen. Path dependency theory. Adventure begins …

Brothers Yafi...

So my friends and loved ones, the time has come to part Washington and head home!! My excitement for this hike is that of a baby who uttered his words and has no idea where they came from; that of a 13 year old boy about to go on his first date; and that of a man about to embark on a journey he never dreamed possible.

Some of my gear has been bought, some borrowed (I believe in gear that's seen some action all over the U.S. Thanks to my good friend Mikey T)

I'm looking forward to this endeavor with my brother and speaking of Wissam Yafi, I have a few words about one of the most brilliant men to walk this planet (and soon to hike all of Lebanon ;-)

Wissam is humble enough to not include his own casting in this blog but without him such an idea couldn't have been possible for me. Wisso's drive and willingness to learn has been an amazing gift I've witnessed throughout my life. The man does nothing to prove to anyone; just hungry for knowledge, driven by passion, and more giving than anyone I've ever met.

My only wish would be that my nephew Karim (Leemo) be able to join us. Nothing is as engaging as hearing Wissam and his son talk about whatever's on their minds and loving every minute of it.

I'm a very grateful man !!!
Here we go...

Samer

Packing Weight Issues

Back in Washington after a week's excursion to see my son Karim in Colombia and do some training for the expedition at a commensurate altitude (some 2200 m). Samer picked me up at Dulles. He had hiking clothes on breaking everything in. We discussed First Aid kits, compass, and other issues. Some of his friends have lent him some gear, which I think is great. One thing we do not have yet is a Map of Lebanon, which we will have to buy in Beirut. Other than that, we are pretty much set. 

I started packing as soon as I had unpacked. Weight may prove to be an issue. It is inevitable that trade-offs be made. Hiking boots on, leaves room in bag for either a pair of sneakers or a Birkenstock. Given that I do not expect to be playing any sports after 25 km hikes :-), I figure birkis could be more functional. Clothing will be relatively light, although I just remembered I need to take a towel, which will take more volume ... My hiking pants are cotton and cool in the summer. Only one issue. If I was them overnight, it will take them longer to dry than some of the more modern nylon mix ones... Too late now. Must live with it. One bothersome thing is all the cables and chargers we need to take for some of our camera/communication gear. USB was supposed to be Universal, but now there are a dozen or so USB standards #$%! Samer mentioned today the need for a better microphone for the camcorder. It makes sense, but given the wind in some of the places, I think sound will have to be edited anyway (perhaps adding music or narrative). In any case we will have to do with the digital camcorder we have.

Mom just walked in advising me the hiking bag I had ordered online just arrived. The marvel of the Internet. Perfect size. Not too big and not too small. Should fit 10 -15 kg easy, although I would prefer the weight be more towards the former for fear that it might aggravate some psoriasis I have on my shoulders.

Found a nice plastic water container, which should fit beautifully in one of the new bag's pockets avoiding the need to carry too many bottles. Although to play it safe in Lebanon's summer heat means taking both just in case. Samer got one as well so we are set on that front.

The compass is presenting an interesting dilemma. My digital watch has one, which reads one thing, and I have two others each of which is giving different reads. Probably some strong magnetic fields around, which in itself is disconcerting. I figure I will take two of them, and if that doesn't help, just get a bearing on the Mediterranean !!!

Now that the packing is almost done, I still need to take care of some financial matters for the expedition, which I hope to do tomorrow so that I am not squeezed the day of our departure.

All in all, the plan is moving along nicely ...

WY

On the Expedition's Success or Failure

In any endeavor we assume, it is natural that we seek success. It is inevitable, however, that whenever we challenge ourselves, failure becomes a possibility or option. Some like to convince themselves in a rather "holywoodish" way that failure is not an option. In reality, failure almost always is, and in many cases statistically speaking the prepoderant option- be it in business, sports ... Just ask sports figures, where in any given tournament, there usually is one champion, and the rest for all intents and purposes not. But are the rest failures? I mean is a 65 year old marathon runner who finishes the race rank 1000th a failure? Is the US women's soccer team, which was beaten by Japan in the final of the women's world cup a failure? Was the Appolo 13 mission a failure? What about finishing runner-up in a science project at school? ...  I tend to think the success gauge so often used itself seems rather irrelevant. Success to me has always been measured by whether or not one tries something, not necessarily by the actual outcome, which may depend on factors too exogenous for anyone to control, including mind you good old dumb luck (or lack there of) ...


And so when I think about the daunting effort required for the Walking Lebanon Expedition, success will be attained by the simple fact that the team will be trying it. Nothing more and nothing less counts in my book. Perhaps I am naturally too curious a person and too skeptical (even of myself) not to ask for solid proof of my own abilities and will try my utmost to reach the objective we have set ourselves. Admittedly though in my life so far I have failed in too many things to mention; but I have also done fairly well in others. Upon remenescing, however, it seems that the actual attempt and effort it took is what I derive the greatest pleasure from. I cannot but feel sorry for the what-might-have-beens-but-never-dared-to-try folks because they may be missing out on all the fun implied in simply trying!

The Walking Lebanon Expedition will be a success because the team will be trying it, regardless of any other factor or outcome. While this thought is comforting, one thing is clear: I am looking very much forward to looking behind at our last step taken in the expedition upon reaching Marja'youn ... and the pleasure that will be derived from remeniscing about all those steps and paces it took to ultimately reach it ...


WY